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Basic Setup - Prepare The Glove Box

spore prints growing mushrooms


By now you may have your kit and are wondering where to start. These directions are to be used as a general reference with all of our kits that include jars. The first thing you want to do is completely clean and sterilize everything you plan to use. I like to have a spray bottle handy loaded with 91% alcohol. (Included with many kits) Lightly spray any plastic and wipe away residue making sure not to wet any filters that may be attached. Get clean and stay clean. Prepare a space on a countertop or desk that can be cleaned with bleach solution and/or alcohol to work on. The first step is:

The act or an instance of inoculating, especially the introduction of an antigenic substance or vaccine into the body to produce immunity to a specific disease.

In order for the mycelium to grow through the jar you have to introduce a mushroom culture to it via prepared spore syringe or culture syringe. Obviously a culture syringe would be better because there is already mycileum in it and there wont be a germination period as with spores. Oyster mushrooms work great in our jars along with Black Poplar and any other grain loving mushroom. WARNING Cultivating psilocybe mushroom species is illegal in the United States and is not encouraged or supported by our company or staff. Please do not ask us cultivation questions regarding psilocybe’s.

Whatever you are injecting with, make sure it’s sterilized using an alcohol soaked cotton ball, Bunsen burner, etc. There will be four holes in the lid of the jar. You will want to divide up 1 cc or ml (depending on syringe) per jar. That’s 1/4 per hole. When you shoot inside the jar you will ant to tilt the jar at an angle so that you can shoot in the middle where the substrate layer is. If

you look closely at the jar you can see three distinct layers. You also want to press the tip of the needle against the glass so that it drips down a little. It is a little tedious but very effective. Some suggest placing tape over the holes in the lid after inoculation. We suggest leaving them open for the substrate to breathe. Repeat this process making sure to wipe the needle with alcohol before and after each inoculation. It is vitally important that you do this step correctly. If you are interested in making sure you have a 100% sterile working enviroment then please consider the purchase of a Glove Box:

Now it’s time to:

To sit on (eggs) to provide heat, so as to promote embryonic development and the hatching of young; brood.
1. To maintain (eggs, organisms, or living tissue) at optimal environmental conditions for growth and development.
1. To maintain (a chemical or biochemical system) under specific conditions in order to promote a particular reaction.

Depending on what strain you are growing the temperature inside your incubator will vary. For most Oyster mushrooms the proper incubating temperature is 80 to 85 degrees. Post a thread if you are unsure of your temperature. Very little light is required for the incubation process and no humidity settings are required at this point. Please be mindful of letting the jars get too hot, they will dry out. Especially if you are using a heating pad or light source to warm your incubator.

During the incubation process your spores will begin to germinate and eventually turn into mycelium which is the vegetative part of a fungus, consisting of a mass of branching, threadlike hyphae. The mycelium will spread through the jar over the course of a few days or a few weeks depending on what species you are working with.

You will want to wait until the substrate inside the jar has completely covered with the white mycelium or “colonized” before moving to the next step.

Troubleshooting -

If your jars have stopped growing for days at a time then you have what we like to call a stalled jar. To remedy this - try turning the jar upside down inside your incubator to change the center of gravity and/or expose the jars to some indirect sunlight for 6 hours a day.

If your jar looks 100% except for a tiny bit on the underside of the glass or at the very top then proceed anyway. The brown uncolonized space you see is loose vermiculite used in the recipe and is intended not to colonize.

If you see pinheads forming inside of your jar while they are still incubating then it is definately time to move to the next step. The pinning inside the jar just means that the mycelium network has grown to its full capacity and is ready to reproduce itself.

The incubation process is always the longest and can get a little arduous. Some jars may colonize before others. Use this to your advantage by birthing some jars before the others. No one said you had to grow all of the jars together. The most successful grow operations are always the ones that have a steady cycle of colonized jars ready for the grow chamber. Speaking of - It’s time for

The emergence and separation of offspring from the body of the mother.
Once you have fully colonized substrate you have what is called “Spawn” which is the source of something; a germ or seed. You could technically use this to grow the mushroom of choice in any fashion or tek you see fit. This tek however is best used in a cake form, like it has already formed in the jar. All you have to do is put it in the correct environment for it to sprout. Before the substrate can be introduced to the fruiting chamber it first needs to be rehydrated since it has lost most of its water content during incubation. The best way to acomplish this is by dunking.

Dunking -

It essentially consists of submersion of the "cake" underwater for 12 to 24 hours.

This is what a fully colonized cake should look like.

Dunking is best done under refrigeration, if possible. One can even dunk cakes that already have small pins safely. Just don't overdo it, by 48 hours underwater they will be dead. As for what kind of water to use, natural spring water is best but you can even use it straight from your faucet if need be. Temperature during the dunking should be cold, or as cool as possible and still above freezing. Time spent dunking should be not less than 6 hours for minimal benefits. 12 hours is about right for dunking in between flushes and at birth but 24 hours is the maximum for full rehydration of nearly spent cakes. There are at least 2 options for how to dunk. My preferred method is to dunk each cake individually by placing it in a jar, filling with water, then screw on the lid to keep the cake submerged. This way is good for small batches, and has the advantage of keeping each cake isolated so no contaminants are spread from cake to cake.

For larger batches, you can simply place several cakes in a large pan or bucket, cover with water and weigh down the cakes by placing a weighted down lid, plate, etc. on top of the cakes. Fresh sprint water is best used with the dunk tek but if you have to use tap water then you can add some bleach to the mix. 1ml bleach to 100ml water. The culture can withstand twice that with bottled water but you have to give a little considering tap is full of chlorine.
Follow these directions after you have dunked.

Remove the lids from your jars and clean them well with soapy water and some alcohol.
Fill the lids with vermiculite, coco coir, etc, but not perlite! Add water to the vermiculite and let the water drip through the holes in the lid until no more comes out. You just want the verm to be nice and wet. Place the cake right on top as shown above. Now these cakes are ready for the grow chamber. Be sure to place a small square of foil underneath each jar because the lids may rust when exposed to the damp perlite and cause problems. Fruiting temperatures will vary but are usually going to be 75-79 degrees and the chamber should be kept as close to 100% humidity as possible. You will know when it is 100% b/c moisture will be constantly dripping down the walls of your chamber.

Setting up your kit.

*Complete Caterpillar setup w/ incubation and grow chamber.

Cheshire Cat and Caterpillar Kits

These kits are very similar in that they are small and good for beginners. The Cheshire cat does not come with an incubator like the Caterpillar kit, so you will have to design some way to incubate the jars yourself. Some people use the grow chamber itself with a heating pad or high wattage light bulbs. The Caterpillar kit comes with a submersible aquarium heater that just needs to be taken out of its packaging, set to the right temp and place in the chamber without a filter on it with some water and a capful of bleach. Then set the other chamber (without filter) inside of that, close lid and you have an incubator. The chamber with the filter on it is your grow chamber and can be added to the incubator if you are having trouble reaching proper temps for fruiting. Just slide the grow chamber right inside of the incubator. When birthing with the Caterpillar or Cheshire Cat kits use the perlite that came with the kit and add it to the grow chamber. Then add enough water to the perlite so that it absorbs all of the H2O but there is no standing water at the bottom.

Alice Mega Kit
This kit is just a bigger version of the Caterpillar kit. Use the glove box to perform all of your sterile work and even to dry your harvests. Just stick the shrooms in the glove box on some wire mesh or anything perforated and close the lid. Turn on the fan and in no time you have dried fruits.

The White Rabbit
1. Put the submersible heater down in the bottom of the largest chamber that you received that doesn't have any holes in it. It should be the clear plastic tub. Position the heater in the middle of the chamber, fill about 1/3 with water and a cap full of household bleach and set to desired temperature. NOTE: this heater is submersible. It can be completely underwater with the cord running out of the side. Do not drill any holes!

Now you will want to slide your grow chamber on top of your incubator. This is the chamber with the small hole drilled in the side with the green check valve sticking out. Set it right on top so that it floats right on top of the water in the incubator. The temp gauge itself reads the temp and the little gauge on the wire can read inside the box when the regular gauge is outside of the box.

This is the humidifier.

It has an intake and an out take. The hose leading from the air pump should be leading into the intake of the humidifier. That is the hose with the little blue ball on it. (water diffuser) This means that the air pump is blowing air into the humidifier. The out take hose on the humidifier should be connected with the hose that goes to the grow chamber. Fill the humidifier with spring water and screw on the top. You will want to refill this humidifier when it gets low. Adding a cap full of peroxide to the humidifier will help fight contams. Frequent cleaning of the humidifier is recommended as well.

The hose that comes from your humidifier provides moist clean air to your grow chamber. Simply attach the hose to the rod if it is not already attached for you. You can position however you like inside the chamber. The suction cups for the tube is in the humidifier for packaging purposes. Use some good, strong tape and make sure not to cover any of the holes on the rod.

Your timer is digital and very easy to use. Simply follow the instructions on the back. We recommend that you use these techniques when using the White Rabbit with the timer.

Cake method = 2 inch *wetted layer of perlite at the bottom of the White Rabbit. run for 1 hour every 12 hours. Wet is good!
Casing techniques = No perlite. Timer set at 15-30 minute intervals every 3 hours (casings require less humidity than cakes and most of the time will create their own humidity inside the recommend inoculating 12 jars first and then wait one week. Inoculate 24 more jars and then the remaining 12 jars the next week. This way you can manipulate the progress of the jars, schedule, a chamber. If you casing is getting too moist in the WR try removing the water from the humidifier altogether and just use the humidifier as an air exchange device.
*Add enough spring water to the perlite to where it is completely absorbed and there is no standing water.

Queen of Hearts Kit
1 White Rabbit, 1 large incubator, and 1 glove box and supplies.
Assuming you understand the basic functions of each main component of the kit, let’s talk about how to use it efficiently. With 48 jars you can turn out a heck of a lot of mushrooms. The key is to rotate. If you inoculated all 48 jars at once you will eventually have to birth them all at once which could cause problems. I nd maintenance. You can also use the jars as spawn for casings when you feel you are ready. That’s where the casing trays and soil come in. See Casing Kit for instructions. Substitute 1 or 2 jars of your colonized substrate jars for the rye grain. Works like a charm)
Also among the supplies in this kit are the sterile syringes and brew. Empty, sterile syringes are vitally important when making new cultures or working with the brew. The brew is a special extract that can be prepared to grow mycelium suspended in a liquid form. Just add spores to the prepared mixture and mycelium will grow inside. You then extract the mycelium with a syringe and inject it into your substrate of choice. The purpose of this is to introduce your substrate a live growing fungi instead of starting from spores which if you remember takes forever because they have to germinate. Here is the recipe to the brew.

Brew Tek
Materials Needed:
Oven or Glove Box
Alcohol + Cotton Ball
Clean piece of Masking Tape
Glass jar with plastic lid, marble and filter
Empty, sterile syringe(s)
Preparing the Brew
Clean the jar and marble thoroughly and set aside to dry. Add 1 Tablespoon of the brew to the jar and add 1 1/4 cup boiling water. Add marble and close the lid with the filter underneath the lid. DO NOT SCREW ON TIGHTLY. Tighten the lid just enough so that steam can easily escape the seams and not explode from being shut too tightly.
Place the prepared brew onto a damp wash cloth at the bottom of a stock pot or any large, deep pot you have. Fill the pot with enough water so that it rises up about 1 inch around the side of the glass. Turn your stove to medium high heat and when boiling start your timer for 25 minutes. Or you could use a pressure cooker for 20 minutes at 15 psi.
Remove the brew when it has cooked all the way. Set on a cool counter and tighten the lid tightly but carefully. Let cool overnight.
Inoculating the Brew
Step #1
Perform all of the following steps inside a glove box or use the oven tek.
Preheat your oven to 100F. Yes...that's what I said. What you are going to do is place the jar inside your oven BEFORE Step #4. This will cause heat to rise out of your oven along with it any contaminates that might be floating in the air just waiting to cause havoc to the Brew. (It is normal for there to be some sediment in the bottom of the jar) You could also use a glove box for this and it work work even better.
Step #2
Take the Brew jar and wipe the lid with 70%-91% alcohol. You may have sediment at the bottom of the jar...this is normal.
Step #3
MAKE SURE YOU GENTLY SHAKE THE SYRINGE FOR A FEW MINUTES TO RELEASE ANY SPORES THAT MAY BE STUCK ON THE SIDE OF YOUR SPORE SYRINGE BEFORE CONTINUING. Be aware of the filter underneath the plastic lid when you are inoculating. You will want to inoculate through the smallest hole in the lid. The other hole should be left alone. It is a vent for the brew. Shoot about 2 or 3 cc's of spore soultion into the brew and cover the hole with tape immediately.
Place the jar inside of an incubator at 84-86 degrees and swirl around the contents 2 - 3 times a day. You are to do this for the next 5 days.

Note: The more often you 'swirl' the spores the faster they will open and spread throughout the Keepers Brew solution. One customer suggest placing the brew on the Dryer Machine when you do the laundry. Another person placed the jar into a Can Holder/Cooler and takes it with him whenever he drives.
Step #5
After Ten days it will be time to use the Brew solution!

Follow Step 1-3 and suck up one cc for every 1/2 pint jar you want to inoculate.

You are to place the syringe needle against the inside of the Brew and 'tip' the jars so you can easily suck-up the solution (Brew)
Make sure you have a STERILE syringe and needle when doing this step. It is best to use a new syringe whenever possible.
Note: If you have a Glove Box you should definitely do all steps within it. YOU WILL NOT NEED TO USE A OVEN! If you do not have a glove box then I do suggest you consider the purchases of one to insure a clean and non-contaminated area for all processing. THIS DOES NOT MEAN THAT YOU MUST HAVE ONE. But, contamination is possible if not done VERY quickly or in a sterile environment of your oven. You can store the Brew in the refrigerator for many months! As long as the Brew does not become contaminated you can make more Brew and inject a full 12cc syringe of the old Brew into a new Brew and begin the process all over again!

Casing Kit

For this tek you will need at least one Casing Kit, rubber gloves, Mushroom kit (White Rabbit) spores, and some patience. This tek is for novice growers who have mastered the jar teks and want to move on to more difficult projects. We are assuming you know basic teks by now.

1. Knock your grain jars up with about 2 cc's spores of your choice. Use proper sanitation methods. Place your jars in a water incubator at 86 degrees. After several days you should see mycelium starting to grow throughout the grain inside the jar. Continue to let the jar colonize until it has reached about 75% and then shake it like there is no tommorow. Allow your jar to incubate for another few days until it has completely colonized like this:

Now you have Spawn.
(You will also have spawn by seperating 1 colonized substrate jar from its container)
2. Prepare the casing soil - Place all of the casing soil into a microwave safe container and slowly mix enough water into the casing mix until it reaches field capacity*.
*Field Capacity - If you take a handful of this mixture in your hand and squeeze it into a ball it will hold its shape but no water will drip out. We want the mixture moist but not saturated.


1. Cover and microwave for 5 minutes. Remove and stir vigorously then microwave again for 5 minutes. You may have to add some more water to get it back to field capacity. Stir again and let mixture cool. You have just sterilized your soil. Save any soil you do not use for later patch ups.


3. Prepare substrate - Take your colonized grain jars and open them up and carefully remove the grain by shaking or scooping out with a sterilized spoon or knife into a plastic zip lock bag. Once all of the grain is in the bag, break it up with your hands from the outside into marble sized pieces

4. Assemble casings - This is really easy. Wipe out your casing tray with alcohol soaked cotton ball. Take the vermiculite that was provided and spread a 1/2 inch wet layer of vermiculite at the bottom of each casing tray. Now spread a 1 and 1/2 inch layer of your colonized substrate on top of that. Make sure to fill in all the gaps with colonized substrate into one smooth layer. Lastly spoon on 1 inch of your casing soil. DO NOT pack down the casing! Repeat the process for all your trays.

When three days are up, place trays in your White Rabbit with no perlite. Set your timer to run 15-30 minute intervals every 3 hours and your heater to 79 degrees. This will provide the perfect environment, temp, and air exchange for your babies. You could set these up in your mycodome without the bubbler running. The casing will provide most of its own humidity. You will want to open it up everyday and mist the the casing with spring water. After a few days you will see white spots poking through the surface. You will need to patch up these spots of mycelium with just a touch more sterilized casing soil to even up your pin set and make an all around better flush. Remember to go through the same process to sterilize the soil as before. You can also get yourself a bigger tray from any hardware store and make bigger casings!

The Mycodome

This three in one system is perfect for beginners in the world of mycology because it allows you to incubate, birth, and dry your mushrooms in one compact, easy to use device. This write up will guide you through the Mycodome's basic functions and teach you some basic techniques in growing mushrooms.

Your kit includes:

2/ 3.5 gallon chambers
Plastic dome with filter
12" fruiting tray w/ air stone and check valve filter.
Perforated drying tray
Plastic lid
Air pump
Digital indoor/outdoor temperature gauge
Submersible heater
48 oz Quick Dry
1 pound of L.E.C.A (light expanded clay aggregate)

Step one:
Setting up your Mycodome.

First and foremost you will want to unpack your Mycodome from its package and wash the insides of the containers with warm, soapy water. Be careful of the submersible heater in the lower portion of the Mycodome. It is secured firmly but can still be damaged. Wash all of the Mycodomes components being extra careful not to damage any of the sensitive parts such as the filter disc, blue air bubbler, green check valve filter, temp gauge, Velcro, and air pump. After washing, give it a good squirt with some 91% alcohol or Lysol and wipe away with dry paper towel. Its always good to clean your mycodome every now and again just to be safe against contaminates.

Assuming you are starting your Mycodome from the beginning to use as an incubator first then you will want to follow these steps.

1. Fill the container with the submersible heater in it with water until the surface of the water will toch the other bucket when you slide it in. Add 1 tablespoon of bleach to this water to ward off algae or mold.

Place the second container inside of the container with the water. It should just touch the surface of the water and it is okay if it pushes up the water a little. Basically you just want the container to touch the surface of the water in some way to heat the chamber. Plug in your submersible heater and set the dial to 86 degrees. It will take a while for the water to heat up. Place your substrate jars, rye grain jars, etc into the container. Attach your temp gauge to the Velcro on the bottom container and make sure the temp gauge is set to "out". This will allow the temp gauge to monitor the temperature from the little wire that is to be run into the incubator. Place your round, white lid on top of the incubator. There is a notch cut in the lid to allow you to thread the air pump plug wire and the temp gauge monitor through when the lid is closed. It is okay if you lid does not shut completely as incubation needs a little air flow. You are now incubating. NOTE: The strip of Velcro inside the incubator chamber is for your air pump. This is for the birthing process so just leave the air pump out for this step. More on that later.

Step two:
Grow Chamber

This is the most exciting and rewarding feature of the Mycodome. We are going to go through these steps as if you have just incubated everything you need and now are ready to birth. Take the white lid off and remove your jars and temp gauge monitor. Place your air pump inside this chamber by attaching it to the Velcro. Take the 12" plastic dish with bubbler and set inside the chamber. Now take the hose that is leading from your air pump and fit it through the hole in the dish to the green check valve filter. Make sure the hoses are attached firmly and that there are no kinks in the hosing. It will take some playing with to get it just right but you will get the hang of it pretty quick.

Now dump your L.E.C.A (bag filled with red rock) on top of the blue bubbler and add about 2-5 cups of water. Basically you want the bubbler to be spitting little droplets of water but not splashing your substrate to death.

Attach the dome to the Velcro on the lip of the plastic dish. You can run your temp monitor up the side of the mycodome or just hang it inside, however you wish. The final step is to plug in the air pump and close the filter at the top of the dome to let the moisture collect inside the chamber. I like to let it run for several hours or even overnight. You will know its ready when little beads of water have covered the inside of the dome. This is the perfect time to add your cakes or casing tray.

Air exchanges will depend on what you are growing but generally for cakes I just open the filter on the top of the dome after about 5 - 7 hours in the Mycodome and then leave it open. If your Mycodome isn't holding moisture that well then close the filter a bit until you can get the desired effect. NOTE: Remember that fruiting temps are vastly different from species to species so keep in mind that you have temp controls for the birthing chamber as well. Just follow the same steps to setting up the incubator and tweek the temp to get the extra few degrees you may need.

Step three:
Dry chamber

OK. So, you have completed all the steps and now you have all these mushrooms to dry. Remove the dome, plastic fruiting dish and detach the air hose that leads to the green check valve and run it down inside the chamber so that it blows air back into the incubator. Now fill the bottom of the container with 1/2 inch of Quick Dry and place the round perforated dish that came with your kit on top of the Quick Dry like a tiny table. Now place all of the mushrooms you want to dry on the tray, close the lid, turn on your air pump and 24 hours later you have perfectly dried mushrooms.


Well that about covers all of the products here at Innersight Trading

If you feel like there are still some questions you may need answered then please feel free to visit our online mushroom community forums at


We have a team of experts waiting online to answer your questions, but please do not ask any questions pertaining to psilocybe cultivation. We will not reply.

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